Rowan Sweater Hack Along PT7 - Shoulder seams & neckband

September 02, 2020 4 Comments

Jump to the previous post in the hack along: Rowan Sweater Hack Along PT6 - Front Bodice. Jump to the next post in the hack along: Rowan Sweater Hack Along PT8 - Sleeves & Side seams

Take a look at that glorious colorblocked front bodice! Aren’t you proud of yourself? Today we’re going to focus on creating some “hanger appeal” - during one of my first jobs as a designer, a lot of emphasis was put on finishing the inside of the garments with the same level of sophistication as the outside. And this is something that has totally stuck with me!

One of the simplest ways to achieve this, is by adding an inside neck binding. This creates a beautifully finished neck and provides a great opportunity to add a contrasting fabric or your own custom label. Our free Rowan Tee pattern provides an inside neck binding pattern piece, but if you’re working with a different pattern, the instructions below will also explain how to calculate your own inside neck binding pattern piece. Let’s go! 

Today we’re going to:

• close the shoulder seam
• insert the neckband
• finish the back of the neckband with an inside neck binding

 

Closing the shoulder seam

First, we’re going to close the shoulder seams. With the right sides together, line up the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice. Sew the seam with a knit stitch or a small zigzag stitch. Finish the seam with a serger or a big zigzag stitch.

 

Press the seams towards the back and turn the sweater with the right side out. 

 

Inserting the neckband

Next we’re going to prepare our neckband. With the right sides together, fold the neckband in half. Serge the ends together or use a small zigzag stitch. Press the seam. Fold the neckband in half, with the wrong sides together. The seam should now be hidden. Give the neckband a good press!

 

Now, with the right sides together, place the neckband over the neck area of the sweater, lining up the raw edges. Line up the neckband notch with the center front notch of the sweater. Line up the seam of the neckband with the center back notch of the sweater. Pin in place. Divide the neckband width evenly over the neck width of the sweater.

 

Serge or use a knit stitch or small zigzag stitch to stitch the neckband to the neck area, evenly stretching it to fit as you go. Press the seam of the neckband down.

 

The inside neck binding

Now the fun part! If you’re working with our free Rowan Tee pattern, the inside neck binding pattern piece is already provided in the pattern. But if you’re working with a different pattern you can measure the back neck of your sweater/shirt.

Take 80% of this measurement (example: back neck = 14cm x 0,8 = 11,2cm) and add your preferred seam allowance. For the width of the inside neck binding I usually take a measurement of 45mm (1 ¾”). This includes a 1cm (⅜”) seam allowance and leaves you with a folded binding width of 1,25cm (½”). This is a bit more than the standard seam allowances already included in Misusu patterns, which will cover the back neck seam beautifully. Adjust your inside neck binding width if you’re using a different seam allowance.

With the wrong side up, press the short 1cm (3/8") seams towards the inside. With the wrong sides together, press the inside neck binding in half. 

 

Turn the sweater inside out and place the back of the neckband up. Make sure you have a good view of the back neck area! Starting at one of the shoulder seams, place the inside neck binding over the back side of the neckband, ending at the other shoulder seam. Line up the raw edges of the inside neck binding with the finished edge of the neckband. Pin in place.

 

Use a knit stitch or a small zigzag to stitch the inside neck binding to the back side of the neckband, evenly stretching it to fit as you go. Trim the seam of the inside neck binding down to avoid bulk.

 

Press the inside neck binding down, over the seam allowance (this way covering the seam allowance) towards the back bodice. Pin everything in place. If you like to add a custom label or maybe even a coat hanger, you can pin it below the inside neck binding. 


Stitch the inside neck binding close to the edge, using a knit stitch or a small zigzag stitch.

Yay! Doesn’t that look appealing? Simple method, maximum results and satisfaction! This method of binding the inside neck can be applied to any pattern and most seams! I bet you’re already thinking about what to bind next!
For now, admire your hard work! Tomorrow it is all about inserting the sleeves and closing the side seam!

XO
Elles

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